
Tra Que Vegetable Village
Visiting Vietnam feels like a trip you have never taken before, expect nothing and enjoy the thrill, serenity and relaxation of it all. My vivid memories are the millions of scooters racing across Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), the subdued atmosphere of the people in Hanoi and the majestic rice fields of Hoi An combining to make this country special. I often miss the simple pleasures of pulling up a plastic stool and enjoying a cheap bowl of Pho in the centre of the chaotic city squares.

Ben Thanh Market – Ho Chi Minh City
After watching Michael Portillo, I felt compelled to write about my take on Vietnam. Interestingly, Michael travelled through Vietnam from the South to the North via railways. I similarly began my adventure in Ho Chi Minh City and travelled North finishing in Ha Long Bay.

Ha Long Bay
I believe the sites Portillo skipped are invaluable to explore, specifically The War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) which has been created by the locals depicting a picture of how they were treated by the Americans in Vietnam War. It is graphic and raw but demonstrates the perspectives and hardships faced. I tend to tread carefully with my clients and leave the option open to them when they travel to Vietnam. However, one must always give them the option to visit. It is important to see as Vietnam would not be the country it is today without learning about the invaders that came before.
War Remnants Museum- Ho Chi Minh City
When I talk about the invaders of their past, I am talking about the catastrophic Vietnam War in 1970s against USA. Prior to this, in 1858 the French colonised French Indochina (Vietnam) leaving traces of Banh Mi (Baguettes) and beautiful Parisian buildings, which still remain scattered all over Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Personally, I love this colonial aspect of Asia, in fact my favourite hotels in the world also encapsulate old world colonial charm in their architecture and they all tell an enchanting story of the past.
There are a number of flight routes into Vietnam. Many of my clients have travelled from London Heathrow to Hong Kong, spending a couple of nights at either The Peninsula Hong Kong or The Upperhouse before flying direct from Hong Kong into Hanoi with Cathay Pacific and Vietnam Airlines. A few clients travelled from London Heathrow to Bangkok staying first at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, before flying direct from Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
However, the quickest route (which I took) is direct from London Heathrow to Ho Chi Minh City with Vietnam Airlines. The flight arrives early morning so one can stop off before reaching the hotel to grab a bowl of Pho. It’s a great way to reinvigorate after a long haul flight too! I recommend staying at The Park Hyatt or Hotel des Arts Mgallery Saigon. I was fortunate enough to stay at The Park Hyatt, which is a modern five star hotel known in Ho Chi Minh City as a playground for the city’s ever growing New Money demographic. Expect to discover urban luxury with a combination of sophisticated design, hand crafted details and modern day comforts all intertwined with a colonial twist.
Park Hyatt Saigon
Alternatively, stay at the five star boutique Hotel Des Arts Mgallery part of Accor hotel group. This property is a great option for millennials with its Soho House vibe. Described as a journey back in time to Vietnam in 1930’s, one can relive the romance of this bygone era while luxuriating in all the comforts of the 21st century. The hotel is as much an art museum as well as a five star boutique hotel.
Hotel des Arts Mgallery- Ho Chi Minh City
My itineraries begin with an early sunrise visit to Ho Chi Minh City’s (Saigon) infamous Flower and Khmer Markets. Explore, Thien Hau Temple officially Ba Thieu Hau Pagoda a famous Cantonese Temple of the Chinese sea goddess Mazu. Hunt for goods around Ben Thanh Market, a famous destination for many locals and tourists from all over the world. Visit the War Remnants Museum and stop by The Independence Palace, home and workplace of the President of South Vietnam during the Vietnam War.
Flower Market and Thien Hau Temple- Ho Chi Minh City
The Independent Palace – Ho Chi Minh City
Discover The Central Post Office a beautifully preserved remnant of French colonial times and perhaps the grandest post office in all of Southeast Asia. Located next to Notre Dame Cathedral, the two cultural sites can be visited together and offer visitors a chance to imagine life in Vietnam during the times of the Indochinese Empire. In the evening explore Vietnam exactly the way in which the locals do, by taking an Evening Vespa Street Food Tour. Vespa adventures are a fantastic tried and tested company to use. Their guides and drivers are well equipped, stopping at some of the most delicious local food stalls around the city. For a romantic evening away from the street food stalls, try sunset aperitf’s and Hors d’ouevre followed by dinner at The Deck Restaurant situated on the Mekong River.
The Central Post Office & Evening Vespa Street food Tour with Vespa Adventures -Ho Chi Minh City
Next, fly from Ho Chi Minh City to Da Nang, a short domestic flight to the central part of Vietnam. I recommend Vietnam Airlines as an international and domestic airline carrier, as they are the quickest and most efficient way to travel around the country.

Da Nang
Stay at The Four Seasons Nam Hai Hoi An which has an idyllic location on Vietnam’s culturally rich central coast. The Nam Hai offers a portal to three extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage Sites and a breezy respite on the country’s most celebrated beach. I recommend staying in a one- bedroom ocean view villa here where one can wake up to the sound and sight of the sea through your bedroom drapes. The beach shimmers seductively from your private terrace. As you can imagine it was my favourite stay in Vietnam!

The Four Seasons Nam Hai- Hoi An
Alternatively, stay at Anantara Hoi An Resort which is centrally located to Hoi An and steps from Trang Duong House and minutes from the Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Congregation.
I recommend exploring the local sites with AOV Travel our fantastic local ground handlers in Vietnam. It is fascinating to learn about each guide’s own experiences of the Vietnam War as one travels through the country. Our guide (Jan) in Hoi An had a very different perspective to our guide in Ho Chi Minh City. He was from Hue and explained to us that he lost both his parents in the War. Hue, was also the epicentre of the war and encountered the most civilian casualties.
Anantara and The Old French Quarter -Hoi An
Explore the rural parts of Hoi An by cycling along the quiet roads amid beautiful scenery. Stop by Tra Que Vegetable Village and meet and chat with the locals working in the fields. Learn how to make Vietnamese Pancakes with all the local herbs picked from the village. Take a walk around the French Quarter of Hoi An, a series of colonnaded colonial style houses. Visit Marble Mountains, a cluster of five marble and limestone hills located in Ngu Hanh Son District.
Discover the ancient city of Hue, a three hour drive from Hoi An. Hue is clustered around The Perfume River, which splits the capital of Nguyen dynasty into two. There are endless must-see historic sites, especially those that are UNESCO World Heritage designated. Explore the ornate Imperial Citadel, colourful Thanh Toan Bridge, Royal Tombs and The Forbidden Purple City. Stay at Azerai La Residence an enchanting luxury hotel situated on the fabled Perfume River, facing the Citadel- once home to the emperors and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. I recommend 1-2 days for my clients in Hue and 3-4 days for my clients in Hoi An.
Making Vietnamese Pancakes ( with a bit of fire!) at Tra Que Vegetable Village- Hoi An
Marble Mountains, Da Nang – Hoi An
Fly North to capital of Vietnam Hanoi, located Northwest of Red River Delta and home to the commercial, cultural and educational centre of Northern Vietnam. I recommend staying at Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel, where one can step into history and experience timeless character, romance and elegance of Hanoi’s most storied five star hotel. It is located on the corner of the Opera House in Hanoi’s French Quarter. There are two wings within the hotel; The Opera Wing which is modern (where most of my clients opt to stay) I recommend 7th floor (with club -room access) and The Heritage Wing which is part of the original hotel (slightly old and outdated). Be sure to dine at Spice Garden an incredible Vietnamese restaurant within the hotel.
The Sofitel Legend Metropole, Hanoi
I recommend 1-2 days for my clients in Hanoi. Begin with an early morning rickshaw ride around Hanoi Old French Quarter. Take a walking street food tour and experiment with the local dishes in the Old French Quarter. Chat with the locals about their own experiences within the Vietnam War, you will notice a drastic change in opinion from South and Centre of Vietnam. Visit Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum complex, an important place of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese. Discover Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House where he lived between 1958-1969. Explore Hanoi’s Buddhist Temple, The One Pillar Pagoda. Unravel history at Hoa Loa Prison Museum ironically named ‘Hanoi Hilton’ by US Prisoners of War (POWS). Explore The Temple of Literature, a rare example of well-preserved Vietnamese architecture, honouring Vietnam’s finest scholars. In the evening dine at HOME Hanoi after visiting the infamous Vietnamese Water Puppet Show.
Street Food Tour around Old French Quarter – Hanoi
Early morning Rickshaw Rides around Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex & Presidential Palace- Hanoi
The Temple of Literature & Hanoi Hilton Prison
Last but by no means least, take an early 2.5 hour drive North to Ha Long Bay . Ha Long Bay is a tower of limestone pillars and inslets topped by forest rise from the emerald waters of The Gulf of Tonkin. There are a variety of cruise companies (I inspected quite a few boats!) but I highly recommend an overnight cruise on Ginger Boat by The Heritage Line. Ginger Boat is a luxurious boat with 12 cabin suites making the experience very intimate and special. It also departs from Lan Ha Bay avoiding the maddening crowds that flock to the busy main route of Ha Long Bay. If you are travelling during low season I suggest heading to Ninh Binh as an alternative, which is a little town in the Red River Delta known as the ‘ Ha Long Bay on land’. However, travelling in high season will allow one to experience Ha Long Bay. Once onboard Ginger Boat, expect a number of activities such as cycling around Cat Ba Island, kayaking, swimming, sunbathing by the pool or one can sit back and enjoy evening aperitifs under the twinkling stars amidst Ha Long Bay, I believe this is a truly magical way to end a special stay in Vietnam.
Ha Long Bay
By Kerris Ursell 9th May 2020