
From upstart creative spaces and obscure bars to neighbourhoods where a surprising urban tranquility reigns, Bangkok remains ripe for discovery.
One of the first Thai words that foreigners learn in Bangkok, is ‘Farang’ or ‘Foreigner’. And no wonder. More than 20 million farang descend on the temples and temptations of Thailand’s capital every year, making it one of the world’s most visited cities.


The Oriental
What I love the most about Bangkok is you run into each other in hotels and restaurants, in the air-conditioned megamalls of Siam Square, at the teeming Chatuchak outdoor market and the Buddhist sites of Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Together, you jostle through the crowds along the buzzing Sukhumvit strip and the backpacker haven of Khao San Road. And there you are again, venturing into the famous bars of Patpong and Soi Cowboy.

Wat Pho, Bangkok, Thailand

Sleeping Buddha, Bangkok
Fortunately, Bangkok is vast and fast-evolving, with many remote corners and newly imprinted hangouts. From upstart creative spaces and restaurants to the under-visited Thonburi district, Bangkok remains ripe for discovery.

Follow my guide on how to tackle 36 hours in Bangkok;

Friday
4PM
“Are Tuk Tuks & Pad Thai really Thai?” That question, embrossed on a wall, welcomes you to the recently reopened Museum Siam, an interactive, high-tech fun house. Exploring the galleries is like bouncing around a pinball machine machine: surfaces light up, bells ring and characters and objects suddenly pop out of the floors and walls as you accumulate knowledge about Thai history, royalty, fashion, food, Buddhism and pop culture.
6PM
Urban chaos gives way to village-like (and farang-free) tranquility across the nearby Memorial Bridge. Featuring an ersatz mountain dotted with Buddha statues, the rock garden of the Wat Prayoon complex is a haven of grottoes, pavilions, roaming turtles and fish ponds. Alongside it, a soaring, white, bell-shaped chedi surrounded by 18 smaller white chedis is a simultaneously massive and minimalist monument. Go past the Church of Santa Cruz and follow the slim riverbank path to Kuan An Keng. The Chinese- built temple is adorned with red pillars, golden bells and sculptured dragons; beyond it, is the dazzling, multi-tiered, 19th – century Buddhist temples and bell tower of Wat Kalayanamir. A ferry (THB5, or about $0.16) returns you across the river in minutes.

8PM
Gaggan is regularly ranked as Asia’s best restaurant. However, just across the passageway is a less fastidious, less expensive, less hyped and almost-brand-new and truly sublime dining experience known as Gaa. Décor consists of industrial materials and autumnal hues, music ranges from bossa nova to David Bowie, and the innovative food comes courtesy of the Indian chef Garima Arora.
10PM
For most travelers, Chinatown’s appeals are street food and the huge gold Buddha in Wat Traimit. But the small nearby lane called Soi Nana is a gold mine of new bars. The red, neon, flickering candles and dark wood at Ba Hao evoke a sultry den from Shanghai.
Saturday
10AM
If you don’t want to rub elbows with tens of thousands of retail enthusiasts in a 27 acre, sun-seared outdoor market with 15,000 booths selling coconut shell ashtrays and elephant print pants swap Chatuchak market for under visited Papaya, a soaring air-conditioned warehouse shop packed with a museum-like collection of vintage goods like oriental rugs or opt for MBK, Siam Paragon or the newly opened IconSiam, on the banks of the Chao Phraya River showcasing the megamalls of Bangkok.
3PM
What happens to old post offices? Hopefully they end up like the Bangkok General Post Office, which now houses Thailand Creative and Design centre.
6PM
Like Thai Boxing and Thai spices, Thai massage is not for the weak! During a 60-minute session at Ruen Nuad, a humble wooden house amid the skyscrapers and crowds of downtown Bangkok will leave you walking outside feeling as limber and light as a ghost.

Chao Phraya River

The Oriental, Room Keys
8PM
The Verandah, a riverfront outdoor terrace comfortably shaded by trees and awnings- extending across three levels- down from the main hotel building to the riverfront.
In a city renowned for its abundance of enticing culinary attractions, Bangkok also offers the added allurement of riverfront dining at establishments located on the banks of the famed Chao Phraya River. Among the longer established and most popular of this genre is the riverfront restaurant at The Oriental. Truly an ‘all day’ dining restaurant, The Verandah commences service at 6am with Breakfast, and transitions through lunch and dinner, to end the day with late evening supper. Served in an atmosphere of casual yet stylish sophistication,

The Iconic Authors Lounge, The Oriental
The Verandah is an attractive dining destination for relaxed lunches, and for outdoor evening dining or drinks, when the refreshing breezes from the river provide a comforting contrast from the daytime heat and humidity. The a la carte menu offers an extensive selection compiled from both Western and Thai cuisines, providing an enticing variety of expertly executed dishes. Some of the standout dishes that epitomise the impressive repertoire of the culinary team include- Surratthani crabmeat and green papaya salad with citrus and fresh tomato sauced served in ripe papaya (my Dad’s favourite dish!) and the wok fried rice noodles with blue river prawns and Chinese chives complemented with banana blossom and bean sprouts (my favourite Pad Thai in the world! – you will not be disappointed with these dishes.

Blue River Prawn Pad Thai, The Oriental

The Verandah, The Oriental
Sunday
10AM
A tranquil and spiritual side of the city appears when you motor through the water channels of Thonbrui in a canopied wooden boat. Bangkok’s towers vanish and soon you are among old wooden canal houses and plank piers where children fish and white cranes swoop down, women in motorboats pass with skewered meats for sale, and magnificent temples and mountainous Buddhas suddenly materialize.

Lodging
For classic luxury in the heart of modern Bangkok, there is no better hotel than The Oriental Bangkok. A truly iconic hotel nestled on the Chao Praya River. Very few places around the world have been around 100 years and even fewer can proudly say that during their tenure they continue to be number one in service and luxury standards. Known locally as ‘The Oriental’ this property has hosted dignitaries and royals from around the world. It is simple yet stylish colonial style décor. The hotel sits peacefully, overlooking the busy waterway filled with motorboats and ferries.

The Oriental
The beautiful tall ceilings, the ornately carved balconies and old wooden shutters of the hotel building certainly gives you a sense of the aristocratic ancient days. The abundance of gran floral arrangements and modern amenities remind you, that you’re somewhere special. Over the years the property has gone through a few renovations and additions, but they have somehow managed to keep them feeling consistent.



By Kerris Ursell, December 14th 2018